New color/fabric added to Cathartt Chore Coat family!In history, Carhartt had a very unique heart-shaped stripe wabash and TCB's mixed it with a cat humor, making it Paw Stripe Wabash! It looks classic wabash but if you have a closer look at it, there still you find more cuteness!
This time, we asked Sanyo Senko, which is located in my hometown, Fukuyama city in Hiroshima prefecture, to make this custom-made wabash fabric. When I was young, I often visited an amusement arcade near the factory but I had no clue at all that there was such a company who had the unique printing/discharging facility.
There are very few factories in Japan who can do indigo post-dye onto rolls of fabric, discharge the indigo in arbitrary shape, and finally print a beige dyeing onto the discharged parts. That's basically the process of how we make wabash fabrics.
We've made a heart-shaped mold for this fabric and followed the procedure above. If you are familiar with vintage wabash fabrics, you might know that the outlines of each wabash pattern are often somewhat blurred. That's because the more you produce, the more deteriorated the mold itself gets so in the end we will need to replace the mold with a new one. But, we thought if each heart/paw shape was really clear and obvious, it might come across as too flashy to wear so we've intentionally made the mold to be a bit age deteriorated to have blurred heart-shapes like the ones you see on vintage fabrics. I hope this also helps this fabric/product achieve both coolness and cuteness at the same time!
This fabric might strike you as a bit cheapskate? but after studying each procedure of making a wabash fabric in person, it occured to me that this might have been the reason why Stifel stopped producing wabash fabrics. It takes much time, much effort, and much cost to make them!
Nevertheless, I can't help appreciating Sanyosenko who went all the way to make our custom-made wabash fabric in the exact same process as how vintage fabrics used to be made. Also, speaking of any Stifel fabric, you may wonder if the unique back print is still there. (There is a boot-shaped print with the "Stifel" letter in it on the backside of Stifel fabric). It of course makes its cost a bit more expensive but I had no choice but to have our back print to make it a purrfect and meowndaful reproduction.
What did we do to decide the pattern and the silhouette this time?
We own 2 Carhartte Vintage jackets from the 40's ~ 50's. Based on those jackets, we've studied the cut, the sewing details. In order to make our jacket match the 20's feel, we've also taken some details from the 20's vintage.
To be more precise about the 20's feel, we've adopted the following details on our new chore jacket
:Square collar with a joint at the center.
:Adjustable change buttons with eyelets on the cuffs
:Set-in sleeve
:low sleeve caps
Not many jackets of today have the collar with a center joint because that looks a bit messy in a viewpoint of seamstress but only the plausible reason that I could come up with is to decrease the amount of yardage.
In the future, I might be able to get the vintage Carhartte Jacket from the 20's and there might be some difference here and there from my imaginary reproduction but it's like the opposite version of Sci-fi movie picturing the future life. We look back at the past and depicting each detail of the past onto our garment by studying the heritage of 100 years ago. When I could go on a time machine, I'd love to visit the Carhartte factory. I wonder if any other sewing workers around me would notice that some details on my chore jacket are different from the rest!
■Size
The size chart is in the picture section. The measurements are taken from the actual one-washed jackets. We receive so many questions asking about the actual measurements but the size chart shows it. It's also true that there could be a slight difference in the measurements from the actual measurements but as long as each size is made from the same master pattern, those difference will be eased off as you wear and a garment gets worn in.
■Disclaimer All the buttons used on this Carhartte Chore Coat are change buttons so that we recommend you take them off before washing. In case of breakage or loss of the buttons, we don't offer the buttons for free of charge.
