Matching Pants
https://tcbjeans.myshopify.com/products/catface-trousers-ecru?_pos=9&_sid=d77a2006b&_ss=r
Undyed fabric is surprisingly common in vintage workwear.
The reason for this likely wasn't a matter of trends or aesthetics, but simply because of cost down.It stands to reason that indigo denim requires the additional process and expense of dyeing the warp threads. Naturally, it would have been cheaper to produce fabric using undyed threads for both the warp and the weft.
The same applies to the stitching thread; using undyed, natural-colored thread was likely the most logical choice. Yet, looking back now, that natural-colored stitching stands out beautifully against the denim workwear, giving it a stylish, appealing look. What were once merely production-floor practicalities or manufacturing considerations are now viewed as design elements.
I always feel that this is where the true charm of workwear lies. Since the "CAT FACE" series is based on U.S. Army-issued gear, the circumstances differ slightly from those of civilian workwear. For military-issued items, fabric selection would have been based on "Mil-Spec" standards—prioritizing not just cost, but also durability, standardized specifications, and ease of procurement. In fact, as far as my research goes, there is no evidence that an unbleached version of the original U.S. Army-issued item ever existed.
However, had this been a piece of civilian workwear, an unbleached version might well have been part of the lineup.
It was with this thought in mind that I decided to produce this version in unbleached denim. This is one of the fascinating aspects of garments based on U.S. military designs: a simple change in color can make them look surprisingly elegant.
It would be interesting to pair them with refined shoes, though they would also look wonderful worn in until they take on a slightly weathered, lived-in feel.
For this release, I wore the pieces as a matching set—both top and bottom in unbleached denim—but combining either the jacket or the trousers with indigo denim would also be a great look.
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During the product development of the Cat Face Pullover Shirt we released in Spring 2026, there was one item I absolutely wanted to create: M40 denim jacket, adopted by the US Army in 1940.
In the 1930s, highly decorative coveralls already existed in the civilian market. Compared to those, the M40 is the complete opposite in every sense. The decorative details are stripped away, making it simpler and more practical.
Unlike the somewhat large and rough pockets seen on the M-35, this one is designed with more practicality in mind, retaining only the necessary functions. It truly feels like military supplied clothing. Until now, I haven't been drawn to so-called WW2 chore coats with two-pockets, but this US Army one is different.
It's somehow rugged, somehow rational. I was drawn to the "reasonable roughness" unique to military surplus.
Similar to the Seamen series, we wanted these to be worn as a denim tux, and we also made the matching pants of which the base design is the US ARMY M-35 denim trousers adopted in the late 1930s.
They feature a wide, relaxed silhouette and a high rise. The design, which prioritized workability, feels surprisingly fresh from a modern perspective, and it's a model that balances fashion and practicality very well.
To reproduce the roughness and slubby texture seen on the vintage US ARMY fabric, TCB tried an approach of using recycled cotton for both the warp and weft threads. While recycled cotton is often discussed in the context of environmental considerations, it inevitably results in a rougher yarn. For brands that want a clean & neat look, it can be considered a difficult material to work with in a sense. However, for TCB, that unavoidable unevenness was ideal.
The cotton that was once made into yarn is now made into yarn again. The unevenness created by the manufacturing process ultimately strongly evokes the atmosphere of that era. Furthermore, the weft threads use vat-dyed gray yarn. While the indigo dye develops a vibrant blue, the color appears somewhat deep and muted, which is said to be why indigo was often used for the workwear at the time to conceal stains & dirts. Although the fabric has undergone sanforization, the amount of water used has been intentionally kept to a minimum.As a result, the fabric still holds some raw feel, and it looks bumpy & rough on a surface. Moreover, because anti-twist treatment has been applied, natural twisting will occur as you wear it. It's not a uniform, perfectly finished denim but it's somewhat rough, somewhat imperfect. But that imperfection is a necessity brought by the constraints of the time, and that's precisely why I feel it still looks so appealing today.
