A few years ago, we created a corduroy fabric based on a vintage "3rd Type" jacket.
This time, we’ve produced that fabric again and tailored it into our "Cat Head" jacket.
When I first arrived in Kojima, I took for granted that this fabric could be produced anytime; before I knew it, however, it had become difficult to manufacture.
Especially with wool blends and corduroys—even more so than with denim—I sometimes find myself wondering: "How many more years will we be able to make this in Japan?"
In the past, there were fabrics known as "Levi's-style corduroy"—materials so readily available that there was no need to go through the trouble of creating them from scratch.
Yet, when I actually went looking for them, I found that the specific fabrics I wanted had already been discontinued.
Perhaps it’s human nature to want to make something *more* once you realize how difficult it has become.
That is how TCB’s corduroy line began.
Although the original inspiration was a vintage "3rd Type" jacket, we deliberately chose not to replicate that style last time.
Thinking that a "WWII-era base" (S40s style) would be easier for everyone to coordinate with their outfits, we released it as the "S40s Cords."
And this time, we’ve added another twist.
We chose the "Cat Head" coverall jacket.
The color is emerald green—a shade that rivals salmon pink in popularity among vintage collectors.
We hope you enjoy this color—reminiscent of vintage "3rd Type" jackets—in the form of a coverall.
At TCB, we’ve decided to call this specific shade "Green Apple."
While coveralls are workwear, I believe that depending on how you style them, they can exude a certain elegance, almost like a suit jacket.
I feel that using corduroy this time has helped bring out that refined quality even more.
Beyond just the look, the tactile warmth of corduroy is another one of its charms.
You often see corduroy used on the collars of blanket-lined coveralls.
I love that soft sensation against the neck.
This time, we’ve applied that texture to the entire jacket.
When you slip it on during a winter morning, I hope you feel that soft warmth before the chill of the air hits you. You might even catch a glimpse of it when you slip your hands into the pockets.
I hope this garment allows you to fully appreciate the qualities of the corduroy—qualities that might otherwise only be noticed around the collar.
□ Fabric
We adjusted the yarn thickness and weave density to closely replicate the texture of vintage corduroy.
The wale count is "14-wale" (14 ribs per inch), matching the vintage original.
While we considered using 100% cotton, we ultimately opted for a blend of 85% cotton and 15% polyester after unraveling a vintage sample and analyzing its composition.
□ Dyeing
We deliberated between sulfur dyeing and reactive dyeing. Our goal was not to create a fabric that looks "used" right off the rack, but rather one that gradually develops a vintage character through wear and washing over time.
We felt that sulfur dyeing would produce a strong "used" look after just a single wash, resulting in an aesthetic that differed from our vintage reference.
That is why we chose reactive dyeing.
As you wear the garment in, raised areas—such as the seams where puckering occurs—will gradually fade to white. That is the kind of aging process we aim to achieve.
